The traditional stovetop method involves nothing more than combining a 12-ounce bag of cranberries with 1 cup each of sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Bring it to a boil, then simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the cranberries burst.

Then, just chill it and eat it. It really is that easy. And it really is so much better than canned.

It also takes little additional effort to add other flavors. For example, for a spicy pepper cranberry sauce, add up to three seeded and diced jalapeños before cooking. For a smokier version, use 1 teaspoon of ground canned chipotle peppers.

Since citrus complements cranberries, you could substitute orange juice for the water and add a few teaspoons of grated orange zest. Another option that will give a similar flavor is to add a few tablespoons of orange or grapefruit marmalade.

Apples and pears make a nice addition to cranberry sauce and turn it into more of a compote. Before cooking, add 3 peeled and diced pears or apples to the cranberry mixture along with 1 teaspoon of minced fresh ginger and 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon.

Or a simple cranberry chutney can be made by sauteing a large chopped onion, then adding a 12-ounce bag of cranberries, 1/2 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of golden raisins, 1/2 cup of water, 1/4 cup of cider vinegar, 2 teaspoons of minced fresh ginger and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer until the cranberries burst. The chutney will thicken as it cools.

Of course, if you're feeling truly adventurous, you can skip the cranberries and make a different fruit sauce.

To make a sweet and savory fig sauce, saute 1/2 cup of chopped shallots and a tablespoon of minced fresh ginger in 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add 2 cups of chicken broth, 1 cup of red wine, 1 cup of chopped dried figs (stems removed) and 2 teaspoons of soy sauce. Simmer the mixture until the figs are very soft, about 15 minutes, then thicken the sauce with 11/2 tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons of water.

Or try this sweet and salty sauce of dried plums and olives simmered in chicken broth, white wine and red wine vinegar. A trio of oregano, thyme and parsley add an herbal aroma to this sauce, which goes as well with roasted pork or chicken as it does with turkey.

OLIVE AND DRIED PLUM COMPOTE

* Start to finish: 1 hour (15 minutes active). Makes 4 cups.

* What you'll need:

11/2 cups dry white wine

141/2-ounce can chicken broth

3/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups pitted dried plums

1 cup oil-packed green olives, pitted

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

13 cup chopped fresh parsley

* How to do it:

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the wine, chicken broth and vinegar, then bring to a boil.

Stir in the dried plums, olives, brown sugar, garlic, oregano and thyme. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 1 hour.

Remove the sauce from heat and let cool slightly. Stir in the parsley.

CRANBERRY-APRICOT SAUCE

* Start to finish: 20 minutes. Makes 4 cups.

* What you'll need:

12-ounce bag fresh or frozen cranberries

1 cup chopped dried apricots

34 cup honey

12 cup orange juice

12 cup water

3 tablespoons brandy (optional)

12 teaspoon grated orange zest

* How to do it:

In a medium saucepan, combine the cranberries, apricots, honey, orange juice and water. Set the pan over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly.

Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and cook until the cranberries are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and stir in the brandy (if using) and orange zest. Let cool to room temperature before serving, or cover and refrigerate.

FAST SPICED CRANBERRY SAUCE

* Start to finish: 15 minutes. Makes 3 cups.

* What you'll need:

12-ounce bag fresh cranberries

34 cup sugar

12 cup water

14 teaspoon cardamom

14 teaspoon cinnamon

14 teaspoon ginger

* How to do it:

In a large microwave-safe bowl with a cover, combine all the ingredients. Cover and microwave on high for 7 minutes.

Uncover the bowl and stir thoroughly. Replace the cover and microwave on high for another 3 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. Serve warm or cover and refrigerate to chill.

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