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Published Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:02 AM

Tweak dough recipe when using whole wheat flour

Dear Lisa: I have a homemade bread recipe that is a family favorite. I tried to make it more healthy by using whole wheat flour, but it didn't rise much and was heavy and dense.

Do I need to add more liquid or yeast, or something else? -- G.L.

Dear G.L.: There's nothing better than the aroma of fresh-baked bread or more wholesome than bread made with whole wheat.

The springy texture and fine crumb of a bread is determined by the amount of gluten that is developed in the dough. When bread is kneaded, gluten from the flour develops to form a stretchy framework that traps carbon dioxide gas given off by the fermenting yeast. As the gas is given off, gluten stretches like many little balloons to make the bread rise.

The amount of gluten in the dough is determined by the type of flour that is used. Bread flour contains up to 15 percent protein, which is optimal for gluten development. Whole wheat flour contains 14 percent protein. But despite its high protein content, whole wheat flour -- which includes high-fiber bran and nutritious germ -- will often produce a dense loaf if you substitute it in a recipe developed for use with all-purpose or bread flour.

Think of it this way: A chocolate candy bar is great. A chocolate bar with almonds can be even better. But the bar with almonds contains less chocolate per ounce because of the almonds. Whole wheat flour is similar: Cup for cup, it contains less gluten-forming protein because of the presence of the bran and germ.

But whole wheat bread doesn't have to be dense, dry and tasteless. This 100 percent whole wheat recipe makes a fine-grained, moist loaf.

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD

* What you'll need:

21/2 teaspoons instant yeast (or 1 package active dry yeast dissolved in 2 tablespoons water)

11/3 cups water

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/4 cup honey, molasses or maple syrup

31/2 cups whole wheat flour

1/4 cup nonfat dried milk

11/4 teaspoons salt

* How to do it:

In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients and stir until the dough starts to leave the sides of the bowl.

Transfer the dough to a lightly greased surface, oil your hands, and knead it for 6 to 8 minutes, or until it begins to become smooth and supple.

Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl and allow it to rise until puffy though not necessarily doubled in bulk, about 60 minutes, depending on the warmth of your kitchen.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface and shape it into an 8-inch log. Place the log in a lightly greased 81/2- by 41/2-inch loaf pan, cover the pan loosely with lightly greased plastic wrap, and allow the bread to rise for about 1 hour, or until it's about 1 inch above the edge of the pan.

Bake in a preheated 350 F oven for about 40 minutes, tenting it lightly with foil after 20 minutes. Test for doneness.

Remove from the oven, and cool it on a wire rack before slicing. Store airtight at room temperature. Yields 1 loaf.

* Lisa Fritz, a longtime Bryan food and nutrition educator, answers readers' questions about food, cooking and recipes. Her e-mail address is cheflisa525@yahoo.com.




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